Inspiring Women in Agave: Shaping the Spirits Industry's Future
You sit on the side of a cobblestone street — surrounded by bright, colorful homes — listening to guitarists in the background play son istmeño.
Los niños play with marbles and the sun begins to set, creating its pink and purple dusty skies.
You close your eyes and feel the warm air brush against your sun kissed skin.
Life is perfect.
And the finishing touch to your peaceful evening?
In your hand, you hold a small glass with a clear liquid — mezcal. The last bit of sunlight catches the glass, creating a hue of golden reflections on the small, wooden table before you.
As you lift the glass to your lips, you notice the subtle legs that form on the inside, the sign of quality from the agave plant. You take a deep inhale as you close your eyes to imagine the pueblo, the hands from this community who nurtured the agave plant, prepared the earth oven, and bottled this liquid of the gods.
It’s in this moment that you taste the agave’s silky, smooth texture — the perfect mix to give you a sense of warmth — a sense of comfort — taking you back to the heart of México.
But, the beauty of the agave isn’t just about enjoying a historical spirit; it's about taking a pause, connecting to the land and tradition, and celebrating life, even in its smallest moments.
What is it about the agave that gives such a powerful sense of unity and legacy?
Let’s start with its importance in the spirits industry.
Why is Agave Significant in the Spirits Industry?
When you think of cultura, you probably think of music, food, and traditions.
But did you know that the physical environment can also play a role in the way of life?
Here’s more context.
Agave is a remarkable plant because it’s great for the environment.
Many plants need constant water to survive and thrive, but agave doesn’t need much water to grow.
Its long roots allow it to dig deep into the ground – exactly where it finds its water. This makes agave perfect for farming!
Many ethical farmers – specifically in Oaxaca – proudly harvest their agave plants after a minimum 8-to-10-year growth cycle.
You may think, but why wait that long?
The longer you wait, the more enhanced the quality and flavor of the liquid.
This is because the flower of the agave plant - seen at the bottom - becomes swollen. It’s called a piña because it looks like a pineapple.
When it’s time to harvest, the leaves are taken off, leaving just the agave flower – the piña.
Using the Earth to help farmers with the cooking process, the piñas are cooked in an underground pit that’s shaped like a cone, packed with rocks.
At the bottom of the pit, a fire is lit and the piñas are at the top. They’re covered with banana leaves or burlap, and finally covered with dirt.
For 8 days, the pit smokes and cooks the piña – giving mezcal its smoky flavor.
After being in the pit is when the crushing process begins.
The piña is placed into a tahona – picture a round base – where traditionally, a donkey pulls a large stone wheel round and round in circle formation.
It’s the stone mill that breaks down the agave, withdrawing the juice of the piña.
Now that the piña has been broken down into mulch, it’s placed in wooden vats – picture barrels – where it starts to ferment with added water.
Fermenting out in the fresh air can take between 15 days to 4 weeks, depending on the temperature.
The warmer it is, the faster it will ferment.
Now turned to liquid, the mezcal is purified in clay. It’s heated up and ran through the pipes into a cool water tank.
So, you see, there’s culture in the physical environment of how agave is turned into mezcal.
Many of these farmers – or mezcaler@s – cultivate the land passed on from generations of family members who’ve grown agave to make mezcal, sell it, and feed the mouths of their children.
It’s more than farming, it’s a way of life.
Now that you’ve gotten a better understanding of how mezcal is made, let’s dive into some inspiring women behind agave.
Who Are a Few Incredible Women That Contribute to the Agave Cultivation?
Mezcal can be traced back to 400 years ago. It’s an ancient practice that gathers all family members – making women part of mezcal’s history.
These women have become more prominent over the years because of the mass migration of men moving to the United States in search of better financial opportunities.
What did that mean for women in Oaxaca, México?
They were no longer solely part of mezcal’s history, but the leader of their households – continuing the work of their family’s farms.
Check out some of the trailblazing women that have turned traditions into legacies.
Fabiola Santiago
Fabiola comes from three generations of mezcal producers on her maternal side. She and her family are from Santiago Matatlán, Oaxaca, Mexico – the mezcal capital.
She’s also part of Zapotecs, an Indigenous group who’s the largest producer of traditional mezcal.
Trigger Warning: Domestic Abuse
Before we get deeper into Fabiola’s story, the following section includes discussions of domestic abuse. Feel free to scroll onto the next woman as highlighted in large, bold, text.
If you or someone you know is affected by domestic abuse, please consider seeking support from a trusted individual or professional resource.
Fabiola remembers her abuela sharing how mistakes in the cooking process of mezcal would lead to beatings by her father – Fabiola’s great grandfather.
Seeing that mezcal brought income to a single parent household, Fabiol’s great grandfather didn’t have time for error, leading to unfortunate violence.
The financial struggle continued into the next generation where Fabiola’s mamá stopped attending school during her elementary years in order to help her grandparents make and sell mezcal.
The conditions Fabiola’s family faced hurt her, but it also gave her the drive to create a more equitable and Indigenized mezcal industry.
Today Fabiola leads, “Mi Oaxaca,” an organization aimed at preserving Oaxaca's Indigenous foodways and cultures through narrative change, education, and collaboration with compatible organizations across borders.
Sósima Alivera
Another amazing mezcalera is Sòsima Alivera — a fourth generation mezcal expert that comes from a mezcal producer lineage.
She’s a Chontal woman, originally from San Miguel Suchiltepec, Oaxaca. Sósima remembers being 8 years old watching her grandmother make mezcal.
“I historically believe women have participated in the palenques and the production of mezcal because it is a family activity. From the time you are very small, you have to herd the mule, poke the pots, carry the firewood depending on your strength, that is, a family job, in which there are always women, ” she explained.
Honoring the creation of mezcal as a family activity, Sósima carries out the mezcal process and spreads it throughout the country.
Her reasoning?
So people see mezcal from a historical and cultural point of view.
Imagine how you’d feel knowing the entire history and production process the next time you see a bottle of mezcal.
It will no longer be just a bottle on a shelf, but a “ceremonial, medicinal, cultural and social drink.”
Graciela Ángeles Carreño
Graciela is a fifth generation mezcal producer of Real Minero. Her story is featured in the book “Miradas Femeninas Desde El Mezcal” alongside other women in the mezcal world and was published on March 8th, International Women’s Day in Mexico to center the voices of women in this ancient practice.
Her family has been making mezcal for several generations in Santa Catarina Minas, Oaxaca – since before the Mexican Prohibition.
Graciela is an innovator.
Why?
Because while she values tradition, she always questions and evolves her mezcal creation.
Here’s what I mean:
Graciela withdrew Real Minero from the Consejo Regulador del Mezcal (CRM) – the gatekeeping agency that regulates mezcal.
CRM ruled that the word “Mezcal,” can contain pretty much anything and follows the tequila model (tequila is made differently than mezcal).
This leads to confusion and future issues about how to define the term mezcal, whether it’s capitalized or not.
With this new rule, there are three categories to define an agave distillate:
Mezcal
Mezcal Artesanal
Mezcal Ancestral
Basically, anything called “Mezcal Ancestral” is considered the core traditional mezcal – which represents a small number of distilleries in México – mainly in Oaxaca.
Unfortunately, this new rule excludes all the other still types that have been used for generations – excluding many mezcaleras that really should be classified as Ancestral.
While Graciela could have stayed with the organization, she chose to transition into independence.
Why?
Because of her values of doing things with purpose.
"What motivates me," she says, "is honoring and preserving my family's history and tradition. But for that, I need to think differently and question the status quo.”
As you may have noticed, mezcal is so much more than a drink.
The agave distillate is also about gender diversity and equality
What Are the Takeaways of the Agave Industry?
Throughout this piece there’s so much to take in – and that’s a good thing!
It goes to show just how important it is to question the beverage industry.
As you prepare to make your own drink of mezcal – or maybe you’ve been sipping throughout this piece – let’s bring it full circle.
Mezcal Is To Be Savored
In some parts of México, mezcal is still considered to be the sacred expression of the ancient gods.
The flavor that comes out of mezcal reflects nature, as it’s created from natural substances of the Earth.
When you savor mezcal, you’re respecting traditions passed on from countless familial generations.
The next time you sit down for a drink of mezcal, feel the aromas and flavors as you bring your lips onto the glass.
Is it smoky?
Earthy?
Herbal?
Floral or lemony?
If you’re not quite sure, ask a Mezcalier expert to guide you – and if you wish, accompany it with a slice of orange and “sal de guzano.”
Support Female- Led Agave Spirit Brands
WHEN you invest your dollars into a female - led agave spirit brand, you’re promoting gender equality in an industry historically dominated by men.
You’re helping create opportunities for women to excel and lead – supporting them to continue showcasing their diverse perspectives and innovating ideas – empowering them to drive social and economic progress.
Often, these female-led brands also prioritize sustainable and ethical practices, making sure that the agave plants are preserved and that the communities continue to be involved in their cultivation.
How Can I Support Women in Agave?
Just as this article gave you a glimpse into the history of agave, continue to nurture that knowledge by connecting with the comunidad of women who are leading the way in the spirits industry on October 7, 2024 from 6:30-8:30 p.m. CT at Diego’s in Chicago.
Think storytelling, connection, and a fireside chat.
Come join me and get ready to be part of a celebración that honors the past and embraces the future.
Join Women in Spirits Now in Chicago.
