What Is Maguey?
A symbol of indigenous heritage in Mexico
Maguey, pulque, mezcal, agave are in essence interrelated words used to describe a sacred plant, and its spirited beverage that is endemic to Mexico. The preferred use of the word is more telling about the person delivering the message and how its history is understood. My mom and family in Hidalgo first introduced me to the world of agave spirits by way of pulque. Pulque is made by fermenting the sap of the agave’s heart. It is abundant and is readily available to sip, whether for pleasure or for its nutrients. My abuelito’s preferred name for this agave plant was maguey. He extracted the aguamiel (a sweet refreshing non-alcoholic juice) drink found in the heart of maguey from the agave stalk and allowed the aguamiel to ferment until it became an alcoholic drink pulque, also known as octli. My abuelito’s best pulque would be the one that was blended with the fresh juice from a prickly pear. The vibrant magenta color, the sweetness, and flavor is by far the best next to none.
The scientific word of this beloved plant that produces spirited beverages is Agave. Over 200 agave species grow in Mexico, but only a quarter can produce mezcal, tequila, and other distilled agave spirits. The most common species is the blue agave used to produce tequila, and it is mostly found in Jalisco, Mexico where the town of Tequila is found. The espadin agave species is used to make mezcal and is a native plant of specific states in Mexico, like Oaxaca where 80% of mezcal exports are derived from.
The story of maguey, as my abuelo calls this sacred plant, is about the people, the plant, ritual, and myths about the land of Mexico. The origin story about maguey has become firmly entrenched in the selling of mezcal.
According to an article written by the Mezcalistas, a historian named Dr. Rodolfo Rodríguez, tells us of two different myths of the origin of the maguey leading us to Mayahuel, the goddess of fertility. Dr. Rodriguez explains that the first story dives into the origin of pulque, describing Mayahuel, alongside another character, as a woman who was the first to make aguamiel from the sap of the agave. According to the myth, in order to have done this she would have needed to know the plant as well as the process of removing the quiote and scraping the inside to get the sap out. Mayahuel was also known as Patécatl’s wife, the creator of the medicine of pulque, octli. Together their divine knowledge of getting the aguamiel and fermenting it, led to them being granted the goddess and god standing. Their sons are known as Centzontotochtin or the 400 rabbits (Tepoztecatl, Cuatlapanqui, Tliloa and Papaztac among others) who are also recognized as minor deities that represent the different states of drunkenness.
The second story, Rodriguez proceeds to explain, is the most popular as it is related to the creation of the agave plant. This tale details a virgin goddess who lived in the cosmic heaven and wished to travel to Earth. Ehécatl-Quetzalcoatl, the God of wind, aware of her wish, went to see her to make the trip together and they once arrived on Earth, they fell in love and were transformed into two flowering and intertwined trees. Mayahuel’s sisters and grandmother, known as Tzitzimime, went to search for Ehécatl-Quetzalcoatl after hearing about her journey to earth. Upon finding her, she had transformed into a plant and they ripped her from Quetzalcoatl’s tree. After breaking her into pieces, the Tzitzimime ate her. Quetzalcoatl would then return to his original form and pick up her remaining pieces and bury them. Understanding and aware of the human desire to enjoy life, he wanted them to have joy in their hearts and to remember Mayahuel, he transformed her into a plant with 400 breasts or leaves. Both myths, as Rodriguez explains, correspond to Mayahuel’s nature and are complementary stories.
The origins of the goddess are as complex as the spirit. As Dr. Rodriguez himself states in one of his articles regarding pulque, “the greater impact of the Spanish Conquest was that the ritual drink got so popular that people forgot its mythical and religious content, starting a prosperous commercial business which gave fortune to many Spanish families. But also, put it into oblivion among Mexicans. The drink went from being part of a ritual to become a cheap drink to calm hunger, pain and exploitation among the indigenous and mestizo population.”
At Vida Mia, we want to take it back to ancestral rituals, myths, and spirituality that is tied to the terrior, the land, and the maguey. Like my abuelito, we want to talk about the maguey by connecting it to its true roots and combining its pure juice with seasonal fruits, vegetables and spices that are endemic to Mexico. In the process of teaching others about agave spirits, we want to bring forward indigeneous stories and myths that point to a rich history of Mexico. We want people to kiss distilled spirits of agave and respect the diversity of the spirit as one would treat a fine wine. Vida Mia’s heart-led mission is to foster positive spaces that celebrate community and where stories are preserved and passed on for generations to come.
Source:
https://www.mezcalistas.com/is-mayahuel-by-any-other-name-still-mayahuel/
Book “Divided Spirits” by Sarah Bowen
